BY JANET STEINBERG

Part
1 of a series

Many decades ago, when I first visited
Dallas, the “Big D” stood for drab, dull, dreary, Dallas.  It was a city
where you had to go on business, or to change planes for a trip to Mexico.
 It was certainly not a city where you would ever plan to go for a
vacation.   Today, the “Big D” might stand for a different
destination… dynamic by day and dazzling by night.  You can play cowboy or
princess, art critic or gourmand…the choice is yours for the asking in Dallas,
Texas. 

“BIG D” DAZZLES




“Little D” had its beginnings in 1841,
as a trading post on a knoll overlooking the Trinity River. The small
settlement established by John Neely Bryan soon consisted of 300
inhabitants.   When Bryan chose the site for the city it had no
mountains, no seaport, and a non-navigable river.  However, what it did
have was the allure of wide-open spaces, with lots of room to spread
out.   The small log structure, located
downtown on the Dallas County Historical Plaza,
is a reconstructed model
of the home and trading post erected in 1841 by Dallas founder John Neely Bryan.


RECONSTRUCTED MODEL
OF JOHN NEELY BRYAN’S LOG CABIN

And, as we now know, Dallas did spread
out…in spades!   Today, the “Big D” is the 9th largest
city in the United States with approximately 1.3 million people calling it
home.  Finding things to do in this dynamic cosmopolitan city is not a
problem. 

First on most visitors’ list is Dealey
Plaza, the location of the assassination of
John F. Kennedy
on November 22, 1963. The grassy
knoll of Dealey Plaza is a small, sloping hill inside the plaza that
became famous following the assassination.  The knoll is bounded by the former
Texas School Book Depository Building, from which
it was concluded
that Lee Harvey Oswald fired
the rifle that killed President Kennedy.   The John F
Kennedy Memorial is a four-wall cenotaph, an open tomb designed by Philip
Johnson, a friend of the Kennedy family.
 



 THE JOHN F. KENNEDY MEMORIAL

Thanks-Giving Square is a beautiful
three-acre garden, chapel and museum in the heart of downtown Dallas. The
garden, in a setting meant to inspire gratitude, is an oasis set apart from the
hustle and bustle of daily life. The chapel, designed by world-famous architect
Philip Johnson, has a unique spiral exterior and an interior spiral of 73
stained-glass panels created by French artist Gabriel Loire. The museum is a rare
compilation of historical documentation around Thanksgiving, as it takes place
all over the world, but especially in the United States. The entrance to the chapel is at the end
of a 125-
footbridge that runs over a cascading waterfall. 


PHILIP JOHNSON’S
 CHAPEL OF THANKSGIVING

The Old Red Courthouse, which was built
in 1892, houses the Old Red Museum of Dallas County History
and Culture.  There are four terra cotta winged serpents, two of
which are original, perched atop the building. 


THE OLD RED COURTHOUSE


The Nasher
Sculpture Center is one of the finest collections of modern and contemporary
sculptures in the world. The 55,000-square-foot space is enclosed by a glass
façade, providing continuous views from the street, through the building and
across the length of the 1.4-acre outdoor gallery and garden. 


VIEWING INSIDE THE NASHER FROM THE STREET LOOKING IN

Whether you are a shopper or a history
buff, a stop at Neiman Marcus Department Store
(originally Neiman-Marcus)
is a must.  The store opened in 1907
with the singular purpose of bringing the finest merchandise available in the
markets of the world to the discerning customer.  A few hours in this
century-old luxury specialty department store is at the top of every
shopaholic’s bucket list. 

“The stars at night, are big and
bright…  “ So goes the opening line from the song Deep in the Heart of
Texas
.  And, when evening arrives, a starry nightlife thrives deep in
the heart of Dallas.  Night owls can roost at a myriad of spots from
honky-tonk Country Western Bars to swanky upscale lounges.  However,
nothing beats capping of your evening with a nightcap and
a 360-degree panoramic view of Dallas at the GeO-
deck at
Reunion Tower.  Nicknamed “The Ball,” the 1978
sphere-topped tower is Dallas’ most iconic structure.  The Tower, that
soars 470-feet up in the air, was featured in the opening credits of the
TV show Dallas.
 

GeO-DECK AT REUNION TOWER

Sophisticated evening entertainment can
be enjoyed in the many architecturally splendid venues
located in the AT&T Performing Arts Center that has been hailed as the most
significant performing arts center built since Lincoln Center in New York City.
  Included
among the Center’s venues are: The Kalita
Humphreys Theater, a historic theater designed by Frank Lloyd
Wright.  Being one of Wright’s last completed creations (1959), the
theater is today one of Dallas’ architectural highlights.  The only
theater design by Wright, the building has been termed an “architectural
shrine”.  

Other venues include
The Morton H.
Meyerson Symphony Center, one of five Dallas buildings designed by Pritzker
Prize-winning architect I.M. Pei; The Margot
and Bill Winspe
ar Opera House, a traditional horseshoe shaped facility that was
engineered specifically for opera and musical theater performances; and the
iconic Dee and Charles Wyly Theatre that is one of the most versatile theatrical performing spaces in the
world.  The theatre’s Potter Rose Performance Hall can be shaped into a
number of configurations, including thrust, proscenium or flat floor.

THE DEE AND CHARLES WYLY THEATRE


Wherever I go in the
world, I am drawn to the architecture of the prominent neo-futuristic Spanish
architect Santiago Calatrava.  Calatrava’s Trinity River Project,
that will ultimately consist of a series of three sister bridges, continues to
positively impact the city and the Dallas skyline. The first two creations: The
Margaret Hunt Hill Bridge (2012) and the soon-to-be complete neighboring
Margaret McDermott Bridge (2017) are already leaving their mark on Dallas. When
the third bridge is erected, Dallas will be one of two cities in the world
showcasing three Calatrava bridges.
 

CALATRAVA’S MARGARET HUNT HILL BRIDGE

“Big D” is an exciting big city with
small town hospitality…a city where booted urban cowboys jostle their Jags
in-between pickup trucks.  “In Dallas,” it has been said,  “it hardly
matters…here or there or almost anywhere you go…the whole place is studded with
a kind of golden ambiance.” 

HAPPY TRAILS TO YOU!


JANET STEINBERG is an award-winning
Travel Writer/Editor and International Travel Consultant with THE TRAVEL
AUTHORITY in Mariemont, Ohio